Series II Jag XJ's have a very similar motor size - biggest difference being
that they have the 90o gear drive which one hacks off (very roughly of
course) and they fit just fine - Over here in NZ there 1.3 billion jags so
these motors aren't a problem - they're delco ones, but don't know many
other applications - I'm looking into silly little Japanese things at the
moment - but the Jag ones apart from the cutting off the top, are pretty
much bolt in...
>From: kenyon wills <imperialist60@xxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: IML: 1960 Window Lift-Motor/Otis & rebuilding.
>Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 13:13:11 -0800 (PST)
>
>
> >
> > The lift motors are available too,I can get 'em from the
> > place where I work
> > for about $40(employee purchase)plus core. Cardone
> > rebuilds 'em. I am not
> > sure if the early-mid '60's motors resemble the '70's
> > motors. I don't know
> > the years of interchangeability. Does anyone?
> >
>
>The 1970's units appear in pictures to have the gears and a
>small 90 degree transmission assembly integral to them.
>
>The early 1960's units come in 2 sizes for the motor body,
>but are interchangeable due to identical diameter bodies.
>They are motors that look like they belong in the head of a
>milkshake machine at the soda fountain, and are a smaller
>version of the unit that drives the 6-way seat in these
>cars.
>
>The larger (slightly longer body with rubberized covering)
>motor has removable bolts and is supposedly rebuildable,
>but I did not locate anyone interested in performing this
>despite asking about 5 electric motor places. The smaller
>one is not clad in black rubber and has rivet-like bolts
>that would need to be ground off to be dismantled. I wager
>that the rubber covered versions (came on post 1960 cars, I
>think) were an attempt to fix/amend without redesigning.
>
>Both units clamp into a stamped, molded metal bracket
>recepticle, and have a pencil-sized chrome driveshaft that
>has a flat on one side. There is a thick rubber
>"driveshaft" about an inch long that fits between the motor
>and the input shaft of the window mechanism that the motor
>is to drive. The rubber of the driveshaft allows the thing
>to come to a sold stop while absorbing the torsion of the
>motor in a non-rigid way, sparing the metal gearing in the
>window mechanism when the window hits the full-up or full
>down stop positions.
>
>They are in a position in the door such that water dripping
>down the window in rain or car washes comes to reside in
>and on the motor, rusting the bearings solid in short time,
>especially when sitting outside, even with the windows
>closed.
>
>These are one of the 1960's achilles heels, and most parts
>sources are consistently picked clean of these - indicating
>that they are a weak point on others' cars too. Lowell is
>getting $75 or more for each of them, and bless his heart,
>the man has a real knack for knowing what's valuable and
>what isn't, then making certain that you know too.
>
>If your shop is interested in looking at rebuilding some, I
>wager that you could get $35 each easy and $50 medium,
>maybe more. The parts that go bad are the bushing-bearings
>and the shaft that they ride on. The rest seems to cleanup
>OK, but that is not my bag and a motor person might see
>otherwise.
>
>I volunteer some of my toasted motors and financing to you
>if you think that you have a path to fix them. Might turn
>out to be a good source of beer money for your place of
>employ.
>
>Boo-hoo - I just don't think that these are available
>rebuilt, and I have to use crummy old sed ones that differ
>in speed and efficiency.
>
>Please let me know if you can help or know otherwise. (I
>was also thinking about appropriating a motor from another
>application, but am not at that point in the car project yet).
>
>=====
>Kenyon Wills
>6o LeBaron - America's Most Carefully Built Car
>73 LeBaron - Long Low & Luxurious
>
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