A clamp on ammeter is the device you need to measure these very high
currents. There are also magnetic ammeters that work OK for this chore,
they just have a groove that you press the wire into. These are not as
accurate as the clamp-on type, though.
The way to sort out whether your advanced timing is contributing to your
cranking problems is to pull the coil wire out and try to crank the engine
that way. If it makes a difference, the advanced timing is causing the
engine to fight the starter. If it makes no difference, the problem lies
elsewhere.
Dick Benjamin
----- Original Message -----
From: Philippe COURANT <accf_clb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 1:57 PM
Subject: Re: IML: hot starter (392 CI)
> As usual i think that Dick is right ! My engine is set with more
> advance than factory (10 - 12 � advance) and someone told me that
> it's perhaps why i has some troubles to crank the (hot) engine.
> i'll test the draw current (at cold and hot starter). The FSM
> says that current should not exceed 150 A with warm engine and
> battery (problem is to find the right amperemeter.. or to use a
> "amperemeter plier", don't know the right word !) and that the
> voltage between + post of battery and + of starter should not
> exceed 0.20 v per 100 A of current.
> If this voltage exceeds 0.20 v / 100 A: high resistance (loose
> connections; burned switch contacts)
> High current (> 150 A) + slow cranking speed = starter should be
> removed and repaired ..
> Low current + slow cranking speed = resistance in solenoid switch
> , loose brush or soldered lead starter (worn brushes or burned
> commutator)
>
> --
> Philippe COURANT (Pau, France)
> Imperial 57 Crown convertible
> Buick 58 Roadmaster sedan
>
> - American Car Club de France (ACCF) : http://www.accf.com
>
> - Chrysler Imperial France : http://www.ifrance.com/c-i-f
>
> - Cadillac " Standard of Excellence " :
> http://www.ifrance.com/accf-cad
>
> - SportsCars : http://www.ifrance.com/accf-sprtcar
>
>
>
>
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