wax / paint issues/chome rust

["Woolf,Richard" <richard.woolf@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Try "Semichrome" or Mothers metal polish.
Rich Woolf
'66 Crown
'73 LeBaron

-----Original Message-----
From: Luis C [mailto:luis1024@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 4:47 PM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: wax / paint issues/chome rust


What can you guys recommend for a chome cleaner.  I
have pin point rust spots on my 68 and I want to get
rid of them. Any one have any suggestions? Thanks
everybody. Luis



--- W Bell <cbody67tx@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I've used that particular wax with good results,
> just as with other Meguiar's products I've used. 
> What IS important for any wax to really work is to
> have good paint underneath it--this is where the
> extra work comes in for basic initial prep.
>  
> If the paint can't be brought up to a hard shine
> after buffing (I personally like the orbital buffers
> rather than the classic buffer), then no wax will
> make up the difference, but it will look better when
> done.  What I've used to get things started was a
> particular Meguiar's buffing compoung (whose grit
> dissolves after a short time) and use it only as
> little as necessary.  Then, after wiping it all
> down, follow that with their glaze to put the oils
> back into the paint.  I discovered that letting that
> cure for a few days before another coat was a good
> strategy.  
>  
> After the glaze is done, then I follow that with the
> straight wax product.  Takes more time than with a
> one-step product, but it looks better too.
>  
> In cases where it's in basically better shape, using
> the old "red bottle" Meguiar's liquid was is a good
> starting place.  It might take a couple of
> applications, spaced out over several days, to get
> things to where they need to be.  Then the straight
> wax on top of that.
>  
> No easy feat.  I also know how long those quarter
> panels, hoods, tops, and deck lids can be!!!  But,
> when done, it'll be worth it.  Just be sure that as
> soon as you start seeing primer bleed through, END
> of the cleaner stuff.  Also, with the orbital
> buffer, use a towel-like buffing mit as with the
> thicker lambswool mits (as the high speed buffers
> would use), the buffer will just sit there and
> vibrate with the mit remaining stationary.  I
> haven't used any of the foam ones, though.
>  
> For wiping, old towels work well.  In the case of
> the glaze, buffing it one day and then buffing it
> the next day can make it shine even more (as more of
> the oils have dried from the initial buffing).
>  
> I've also observed that different colors have
> different durability factors on wax.  Seems that
> black just cooks it off regardless of what it is,
> but some last longer than others.
>  
> Just my own observations and experiences,
> W Bell
> 



        
                
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