Or you need to grease your U joints!
-------Original Message-------
Date: 7/15/2011 1:22:48 PM
Subject: RE: Digest for 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx - 25 Messages in 6 Topics
My 64 Polara has had a vibration for a long time. I've suspected it was the pinion angle since the car is raised a few inches in the rear, so a few weeks a go I let some air out of the rear shocks and a lot of the vibration went away, which kinda proves the culprit is probably the pinion angle. Just FYI. Jeff
To: 1962to1965mopars+digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: 1962to1965mopars+noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Digest for 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx - 25 Messages in 6 Topics Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 18:04:05 +0000
Group: http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars/topics
Mike & Deb <lefevre@xxxxxxxxxx> Jul 14 09:32PM -0400 ^
Hi Jim,
Many moons ago the dealership I worked at had a spin balancer that
balanced wheel/tire/drum all together. If I recall the machine was built
by Hunter. They were sort of dangerous but balanced very well. You might
find an old shop that still uses one.
Mike LeFevre
On 7/14/2011 11:03 AM, Jim Altemose wrote:
Doug J <63sprtfury@xxxxxxxxx> Jul 14 10:56PM -0500 ^
Yup,, used 'em. Dangerous when it came off the wheel, but no better
balance can be had.
We used to do the rear wheels on non posi cars at 45 mph (90 real
time). Learned to do that by laying my head on the quarter panel
above the wheel... When yer head stopped vibrating,,, the wheel was
balanced.!!! My boss said I was the best bubble balancer in
3 states,,,,,,, I said he was the best spin balancer in the U.S.
He's long since gone,,, but I stand by the statement. !!!
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 8:32 PM, Mike & Deb <lefevre@xxxxxxxxxx> wrot
--
Doug,
'63 Sport Fury 'vert
Jim Altemose <jaltemoose@xxxxxxxxx> Jul 15 09:49AM -0400 ^
Doing a little research on the Internet and I see people mention "hub
runout" in relation to vibration at highway speeds. What is hub
runout?
Thanks.
- Jim
Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY
'63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)
'63 Polara 500 (383)
'65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge)
'71 Bronco
Dodger7998@xxxxxxx Jul 15 10:20AM -0400 ^
Runout would be any dimensional changes from original specs, such as loose
tolerances on the machine work used to produce the item, or core shift when
molded,,, IE,,,,,, the part when manufactured ran out side of specs
In a message dated 7/15/2011 8:49:33 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
jaltemoose@xxxxxxxxx writes:
What is hub
runout?
MO <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Jul 15 10:30AM -0700 ^
Thanks Dodger!, you just answered a question I mever tryed too figger
out ! I just thought runout was a general term that meant the part
was not straight. ie: That would be" run outside "of intended
tolerencs fer sure!................................MO
Dodger7998@xxxxxxx Jul 15 01:54PM -0400 ^
The term "run out" is a slang also used when testing an item,,,, such as
how did the car run out,,, which also would go back to ,, where was its
performance/handling/ride/etc,,,,, compared to what is in your mind as to what
the expected specs should be
In a message dated 7/15/2011 12:30:51 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
Thanks Dodger!, you just answered a question I mever tryed too figger
out ! I just thought runout was a general term that meant the part
was not straight. ie: That would be" run outside "of intended
tolerencs fer sure!................................MO
> Runout would be any dimensional changes from original specs, such as
loose
> tolerances on the machine work used to produce the item, or core shift
when
> jaltemo...@xxxxxxxxx writes:
> What is hub
> runout?
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"waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx" <waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx> Jul 15 07:59AM -0700 ^
That is just SO COOL !
Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
----- Reply message -----
From: "Stephen Andrachek" <s.andrachek@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Fri, Jul 15, 2011 4:44 am
Subject: Nostalgic Super Stock Video
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
At least 90% Mopars. They continue to dominate just like they always have.
Here's the link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWi5MfLbZT0&feature=related
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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MO <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Jul 15 10:44AM -0700 ^
At about 1:20 the white 64 Dodge. --All bristled up and shak'in her
booty during burnout----OHHH BUDDY! that gets my motor
runn'in..............................MO
On Jul 15, 6:44 am, "Stephen Andrachek" <s.andrac...@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Michael Phelps <mikeph@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Jul 14 09:35PM -0400 ^
I just got a full set for my car from Year One for $29.99. It included the hood (6) the doors (4) the trunk (4) though mine only needed two for the trunk. Also the kit came with bumpers for the ashtray and the glovebox. And four that, well I haven't figured out where they go yet, maybe the gas filler door/license plate mount.
Michael Phelps
Sent from my iPhone
"Donnie Schanz Jr" <dcs426@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Jul 14 10:11PM -0400 ^
Thanks Mike.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Phelps" <mikeph@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 9:35 PM
Subject: Re: hood bumpers
I just got a full set for my car from Year One for $29.99. It included the
hood (6) the doors (4) the trunk (4) though mine only needed two for the
trunk. Also the kit came with bumpers for the ashtray and the glovebox. And
four that, well I haven't figured out where they go yet, maybe the gas
filler door/license plate mount.
Michael Phelps
Sent from my iPhone
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
> http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en.
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your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Ruth Gordon <kpmvn4wrd@xxxxxxxxx> Jul 15 02:12AM -0700 ^
Perhaps try garygoers.com, he'll know also,
Ruth
On
Mike & Deb <lefevre@xxxxxxxxxx> Jul 15 07:38AM -0400 ^
Hi fellas,
Does any one reproduce the emergency brake stop bumper?
Mike LeFevre
On 7/15/2011 5:12 AM, Ruth Gordon wrote:
Michael Phelps <mikeph@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Jul 15 10:07AM -0400 ^
Is there one? Maybe it's one of the extra bumpers I got in the kit from Year One. I'll check later and see.
Michael Phelps
Sent from my iPhone
Mike & Deb <lefevre@xxxxxxxxxx> Jul 15 01:02PM -0400 ^
Michael,
The em brake up stop is a rectangular shaped bumper with a "blade" style
retainer.
Mike LeFevre
On 7/15/2011 10:07 AM, Michael Phelps wrote:
Michael Phelps <mikeph@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Jul 15 01:23PM -0400 ^
Like the ones that go on the back underside of the trunk lid? Because I got four in the kit but I only needed two for my trunk. I just assumed they were for other vehicle applications.
Michael Phelps
Sent from my iPhone
fd_colorado <fd_colorado@xxxxxxxxxxx> Jul 15 08:11AM -0700 ^
Sleeper Build
Just doing a bit of daydreaming here... maybe you guys have some
ideas, how would you spend your money and what kind of times do you
think you'd achieve?
the car:
1963 Plymouth Belvedere 4 dr sedan, 318ci/2bbl, 727 auto, car is
totally original, e.g. 14" wheels etc. No PS, PB or air cond.
Parts budget of $2500 - $5000
some of my thoughts are...
front disc brake conversion
if possible, widen stock rear wheels and install street/drag tire
awhile back Hot Rod did a 318 budget rebuild netting 406hp for ~$1500
bucks
???
Dodger7998@xxxxxxx Jul 15 11:43AM -0400 ^
Drop in a late model 360,,,,,,we all know that a poly can be built, but the
parts and availability of the later engines are unmatched,,,,,,,, you
will end up with more HP, for less bucks,,,,,
In a message dated 7/15/2011 10:11:13 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
fd_colorado@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
Sleeper Build
Just doing a bit of daydreaming here... maybe you guys have some
ideas, how would you spend your money and what kind of times do you
think you'd achieve?
the car:
1963 Plymouth Belvedere 4 dr sedan, 318ci/2bbl, 727 auto, car is
totally original, e.g. 14" wheels etc. No PS, PB or air cond.
Parts budget of $2500 - $5000
some of my thoughts are...
front disc brake conversion
if possible, widen stock rear wheels and install street/drag tire
awhile back Hot Rod did a 318 budget rebuild netting 406hp for ~$1500
bucks
???
--
--
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.
Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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"Donnie Schanz Jr" <dcs426@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Jul 15 12:29PM -0400 ^
Why would you waste $$$ on disc brakes? My Maxxie runs 11's all day and
stops with the drums. Too much $$$ to spend on stopping and you should spend
it on going forward. I would put a 100 shot of NOS before I would do discs.
My buddy added it to his little 289 Mustang and what a difference. It well
worth the $$$ and not to dangerous. I am not an NOS guy, but I was
impressed.
Donnie
----- Original Message -----
From: "fd_colorado" <fd_colorado@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse"
<1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2011 11:11 AM
Subject: Just daydreaming...Sleeper ideas?
Sleeper Build
Just doing a bit of daydreaming here... maybe you guys have some
ideas, how would you spend your money and what kind of times do you
think you'd achieve?
the car:
1963 Plymouth Belvedere 4 dr sedan, 318ci/2bbl, 727 auto, car is
totally original, e.g. 14" wheels etc. No PS, PB or air cond.
Parts budget of $2500 - $5000
some of my thoughts are...
front disc brake conversion
if possible, widen stock rear wheels and install street/drag tire
awhile back Hot Rod did a 318 budget rebuild netting 406hp for ~$1500
bucks
???
--
--
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Mike & Deb <lefevre@xxxxxxxxxx> Jul 15 01:04PM -0400 ^
Turbo charge it!
On 7/15/2011 11:11 AM, fd_colorado wrote:
"Gary Pavlovich" <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx> Jul 15 10:19AM -0700 ^
I would agree with Dodger that the 360 can build easy HP as the recipes are numerous and you have any shop that can do the build. However, you need to determine what your real goals and intentions for your car is. Reading your e-mail lets me know it is an “original” car so do you want to have the original look with a wallop packed under the hood – ala, sleeper? How much HP do you want vs. what you really need to lose traction on the street with Drag Radials?
We can only give you our opinions as to what we would do but we know what kind of car we want to build.
Saying that, I will give you my opinion and best guess as to what you are looking for in your build; pump gas engine with enough HP and torque to smoke the tires at will but not unmanageable street manners – it must start easily, not require extensive tuning to maintain driving pleasure, not require more than 3500rpm stall convertor and a 3.91 rear gear...a nice looking, hard running, sleeper car, with that nostalgic 1963MOPAR look & Hot Rod stance (perhaps aftermarket rims and 235/.60-14 or 15 Drag Radials; Hoosier/BFG/MT) enough mods to stay within your budget w/o compromising your “performance.” Need to assess your true street to strip driving ratio as well.
I would choose the 318 Poly in Hot Street modified form or a 360 Stroker Poly.
Reasons:
No expense and hassle of buying a 360 core engine and changing the motor mounts and swapping to an externally balanced convertor for the externally balanced 360 engine.
The 360 is ubiquitous (everywhere/common) and doesn’t look “right/correct/or impressive at all” in the engine bay of a 1963 Plymouth” and will maintain or increase the value and or desirability of your car.
It will also “personalize” your car...think about what that means to you.
The 318 Poly is impressive looking (wider than a 440) and appears correct/nostalgic/generates more attention & questions than a HEMI in your engine bay...that really is worth something at cruise nights...
“ “ “ will not require any chassis modifications other than to replaced the old parts – no modifications/adjustments to anything.
“ “ “ High Performance parts are all available and easily obtained new except for the intake manifold and there are plenty available on E-bay and swap meets to make this a non-issue; especially the dual quads.
The 318 Poly will meet and exceed all your HP & Torque goals without exceeding your budget and easily make 425HP and 450ft.lbs.torque in 360” econo Stroker trim and 350-375HP in HOT stock stroke trim.
NOTE: read Nick Tiberio’s e-mail comments about his 360 Stroker Poly I forwarded to this list and question some Poly builder/owners about the pros & cons of their “built” Polys vs. other options.
You don’t need more than approx. 350-375 REAL HP to reach your goals outlined in your e-mail with your chassis.
HOT Stock Stroke Poly:
OEM pistons with head mill to achieve 9 to 9.5 to one ratio; 10 to 1 can be had as well.
Port & polish the heads – 211cfm intake is enough flow for 425HP and 450ft. lbs. of torque; this with headers/exhaust gives you the most bang for your buck with an aftermarket camshaft and four barrel induction.
264/.450” ([email protected]”) 110LC solid to 262/.460” ([email protected]”) HYD. HP Poly Cam; or 284/.480-.510” ([email protected]”)108-110LC Poly Solid Cam to 270/.480” ([email protected]”) 110LC HYD. HP Poly Cam
Four barrel intake or dual quad
Stock 1.84/1.56” valves OK or upgrade to 1.94/1.60” if budget allows
TTI Headers a must with good 2 1/2” dual exhaust w/H or X pipe through Dynomax Super Turbos or Flowmasters...personal choice here
A 2500-3000rpm high stall convertor is recommended, but not necessary for the first stage of cam profiles but mandatory for the second choice of cam profiles and preferably a 3000-3500rpm convertor
Rear gears will greatly enhance any engine modifications and a minimum of 3.23 gears are requisite for any build past stock if you want to “feel” the value-added to your engine build; 3.23-3.91 for the first step and 3.55-4.10 for the second step recommended.
Electronic Ignition for stock and modified Poly recommended
Engine balancing and unleaded seats are “standard” in all engine builds as far as I am concerned.
360 Stroker Poly:
All the above with the exception of using LA low-compression truck pistons and fly-cutting the pistons for an intake valve relief; choice of 9 to 10 to 1 compression ratio.
Please e-mail me off-list for more information or a list of the parts suppliers, local machine shops, and current prices I have been able to catalog for our “PolyHeads” to make your shopping and engine building easy.
Prices are always changing in the marketplace but I try to do a search for the best part at the lowest price and pass it along to our Mail List people.
Take care,
Gary Pavlovich
From: Dodger7998@xxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2011 8:43 AM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Just daydreaming...Sleeper ideas?
Drop in a late model 360,,,,,,we all know that a poly can be built, but the parts and availability of the later engines are unmatched,,,,,,,, you will end up with more HP, for less bucks,,,,,
In a message dated 7/15/2011 10:11:13 A.M. Central Daylight Time, fd_colorado@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
Sleeper Build
Just doing a bit of daydreaming here... maybe you guys have some
ideas, how would you spend your money and what kind of times do you
think you'd achieve?
the car:
1963 Plymouth Belvedere 4 dr sedan, 318ci/2bbl, 727 auto, car is
totally original, e.g. 14" wheels etc. No PS, PB or air cond.
Parts budget of $2500 - $5000
some of my thoughts are...
front disc brake conversion
if possible, widen stock rear wheels and install street/drag tire
awhile back Hot Rod did a 318 budget rebuild netting 406hp for ~$1500
bucks
???
--
--
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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--
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Allen Sullivant <dart440@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Jul 14 08:49PM -0500 ^
Greetings,
My 62 Dart sedan is sitting up right now, outside, slowly going
to pot. It would be drivable were I to get the carb rebuilt (float
stuck, leaks gas all over the place) and the blown exhaust manifold
gaskets replaced so it doesn't sound like an Alco locomotive on
steroids. But there's one thing I'd like to take care of, the
better to keep things dry on the inside, which is this:
The driver's side rear door don't latch any longer. It just bangs
without catching. The door handle mechanism is not stuck, either
inside or on the outside. The little star wheel in the door spins
freely. Any ideas or easy fixes?
Thanks,
Allen Sullivant
Brentwood, Tn.
neal zimmerman <neal.zimmerman@xxxxxxxxx> Jul 14 06:53PM -0700 ^
hows the droop factor of the door? hinges shot?? also could the
receptacle in the door jamb have shifted? banging means metal on metal
is occuring most likely
neal
Ray Bell <raybell46@xxxxxxxxx> Jul 14 06:37PM -0700 ^
Ron Martin had his '64 wagon 'Golden Anniversary Model' on the old
dodgepolara.com site (is that still around?) and I'm sure he told me
it was a limited edition in special colours.
Gorgeous old wagon!
Ray
-- -- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group. http://groups.google.com/group/1962to1965mopars?hl=en. |
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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